October 2, 2011
Well on Saturday I had a couple coffees in the morning before heading to the bus terminal (Terminal Terreste) and caught a 3 1/2 hour bus to Loja. The roads basically zigzag around the Andes mountains and it reminded me of my bus trip from Tibet to Nepal 5 years ago except the mountains were a little smaller than the Himalayas. I guess down here double lined roads don't mean anything as the bus driver was constantly passing people on the double lines which I didn't mind because I could see there were no vehicles coming but where I did mind was when he was passing cars and going around a corner into the oncoming traffic lane as we went around the mountain and you couldn't see if a car was coming or not. I was right behind the driver and everytime he did this I felt like tapping him on the shoulder and scolding him by shaking my finger and saying "No me gusta!!!". Mind you, there wasn't many vehicles on the road but you just never know.
I remember working in the oilfields a year ago where we were talking about South America and one older guy was always negative about South America where it seemed he had a grudge against it even though he had never been there. Well it turned out that his daughter had been down to Venezuela 10 years ago and riding on a bus down there when the driver's cigarette fell on the floor and as he was busy trying to pick it up they drove over a cliff and rolled the bus and his daughter became a parapelegic and wheelchair bound afterwards and there was a huge beauracratic ordeal just to get her back to Canada and the hospital charges he had to pay etc.... I guess I had that story was on mind as I saw my bus driver doing this.
Anyhow I got to Loja where I immediately transferred to another smaller bus bound for Vilcabamba. When I got on I realized I didn't fit and had to hunch my back over as the ceiling came up to my chin (I'm 6'3) and all the seats were cramped together and I put my 2 big suitcases down below the bus and took my day bag and lap top bag onto the bus with me and could hardly fit in a seat. I see a guy eating ice cream over on the other aisle with the ice cream woman still on the bus and I ask him "Bueno??" and he says with a big smile "Ahhh muy bueno!!" and he calls the woman over for me and I buy one which is just 30 cents. The seats are numbered to your ticket (prearrange seating) but I notice a couple people moving to any seat they wanted so I find my own seat where I basically take up 2 seats and hope that this is it for the passengers. We leave and I assume I have both seats to myself all the way to Vilcabamba which is another 1 1/2 hour drive and after 5 minutes of driving the driver stops to pick up a ton of people who take up the remaining seats along with 12 people standing in the aisle and I am completely cramped in my seat. I think "no problem" because it is only 1 1/2 hours to go and I am cramped with 2 bags on my lap and no room to even move when the ticket guy comes around 10 minutes later to see everyones tickets and everyone shows him theirs and he gets to me and I am so cramped I can't even reach into my jean pockets. I look at the guy beside me and I try to indicate to him that I need him to get up so I can stand up and reach into my jeans pocket to get my ticket but he doesn't move and instead he looks at me the way a cat or dog would look at your finger when you are pointing at something (so completely missing the point). Well the ticket guy is waiting patiently for a few minutes for me to show him my ticket and I can't move and I don't know how to say "get up" in spanish and I found that I was losing my patience quickly at this moment so I finally look at the guy beside me with big wide eyes and raise my voice and say "GET UP!" as I am indicating with my thumb towards the ceiling for him to get out of his seat. I know he didn't understand my english but I am sure he understood my tone of voice and facial expression (That is a universal language we all share). Of course I said "gracias" to him once he moved and I got my ticket out but I just can't believe some people will sit there like a log and do nothing to get out of your way when it was completely obvious that I couldn't move with him beside me.
I got to Vilcabamba at 1:30pm. It is a really peaceful and tranquil place nestled in the middle of high mountains. It got it claim to fame for being the "Valley of Longevity" because I believe some researchers from England in the 1970's came over to study the legend of these people that were living to 120 years of age and older and they didn't know what it was that allowed them to live so long and came up with some theories. Well from what little I have read that it seems it was all a prank by the locals as the old people were using the ID's of their parents and putting these researchers on for many decades. I had seen a poster of a hotel in Vilcabamba called "Izhcayluma" at the coffee shop I frequented daily in Cuenca and decided to go there but they were completely full and it had nice views over looking the valley. So she called around for me and I came to the "Jardin Escondido" which is right in town (The other place was 2km south of town) and it also has a pool. Once I got there I spent 2 hours just resting my knees and legs from being cramped on that bus.
Vilcabamba is a very small town. Probably 6 blocks by 6 blocks but there are a couple roads that go a little farther out of town with houses and stores along the way. First thing I heard when I got off the bus were pigs squeeling right beside the bus station. There are little aiport pickup trucks right beside the bus station and they cost $1US to go anywhere since the town isn't very big. The taxis in Cuenca cost $2US to go anywhere but Cuenca is much bigger than Vilcabamba. Everytime I see the name "Vilcabamba" it reminds me of that Ritchie Valens song "Vi-Vi-Vi-Viilcabamba... Arriba, arriba" or something like that LOL!
On Sunday I got up early and had the complimentary breakfast at the place I am staying. The one spanish phrase I have down pat now is "Cafe americano con leche por favour" (Because I always get what I think I am ordering) but the young girl asked me in spanish my breakfast choices (which was given to me in multiple choice fashion) and I didn't understand anything she said and so I asked her to repeat the choices again and she did and I still didn't understand and wanted to ask her to repeat herself for a 3rd time but didn't want to risk her rolling her eyes at me (It's happened a couple times already) so I thought I recognized "frigoles" as one of the choices which is beans so I said yes to that thinking that I had identified something. Well later she brings out to my surprise "eggs on toast". Well that is definitely better than "frigoles" because I was worried that she would bring out a full plate of that white corn stuff that I don't like. I got off easy this time folks!! I keep thinking I will have an incident like "I am sorry sir but you did order the "Tarantula and snake" soup".
At my hotel there is a map of Vilcabamba and it shows some good hiking trails and the tallest one being the mountain top of "Mandango" and thought that would be a great hike considering it was Sunday and most places would be closed. Of course at my hotel I read a big warning sign posted at the Reception desk for all to see warning about recent robberies of tourists by 3 men armed with machetes on the mountain (See photo). I can certainly deal with men armed with knives (Since they are all "hobbit sized" to me LOL!) but machetes is a whole new area of combat and I really wanted to go up that mountain today. I was hoping that maybe I could rent a machete for 5 hours for $5 but I wasn't holding my breath that they had any machete rental shops (Like "Bob's machete rentals") nearby considering this place doesn't have a lot of stores to begin with.
So I take precautions and leave my passport, watch, and wallet at home and just take my bag with my camera (which isn't allowed according to the warning sign or any valuables) and my ice tea and begin to try to find the entrance to this place according to the map I had seen in the hotel eating area. Well I walk a little ways out of town and see this rock wall with a big sign that you can hardly make out due to the paint fading say "Mandango Informaccion" that has the same warning sign to hikers with a buzzer to alert them of your presence because I don't see anyone in there. Well I continue walking since I know immediately they won't let me take my camera in and probably being by myself they would say "no way". Well I circled around this dirt road twice and saw no trails leading anywhere so I ask a man by the side of the road and he tells me I have to go see the "informaccion office" so I realize I won't be climbing this mountain because there is no way I am going to climb something this big with breathtaking views and not bring my camera. At this point I really did feel like buying a machete and doing the hike and then stopping by the "Informaccion office" on my way back and throwing 3 severed spanish hands onto their desk and telling the information clerk that the problem has been dealt with LOL! Geez, you can tell I am really getting into my "Last days of the Incas" book as I am starting to think like a conquistadore!
The reception at my hotel told me that the bus schedule for all buses and destinations from Vilacbamba was listed on the wall on the other side of the room so I checked it out since I need to go to Zumba before heading into Peru. Well the only time listed for Zumba departures each day was 7pm which means I would be arrive to Zumba at 12midnight or 1am which is far too late but didn't think I had a choice since that was the only bus time listed for that particular bus. The New Zealander that I met at my Cuenca hotel had told me there was one that went through Vilcabamba at 6am from Loja on its way to Zumba since he was doing the same route (and the guy who originally told me to go to the pre-incan site of "Kuelap") so after I returned from my unsuccessful Mandango excursion I decide to go to the bus station and check out the Zumba bus departures myself. I went into the first office and this young woman I spoke with was absolutely gorgeous and had a twinkle in her eye as she smiled and told me the right bus company that goes to Zumba. So I went across the road to "Sur Oriente" bus company and they were the only bus company that went to Zumba and they go 5 times a day (6am, 9:30am,3:30pm, 7pm, & 10:30pm). See folks, it pays to get second opinions down here and also to go straight to the horses mouth for information even if you only understand 25% of what the horse is trying to tell you due to the language barrier.
So I will be taking the 6am bus tomorrow (Monday) morning which should get me to Zumba by 11am and then cab it to the Peruvian border and get my Ecuadorian exit stamps out of Ecuador and my entry stamps into Peru. My next destination is "Chachapoyas" in Peru where I plan to see the pre-incan site of "Kuelap" which is a little south east of Chachapoyas.
This afternoon I will be just chilling out in the pool and my hammock and will be off first thing in the morning.
Chao
Well on Saturday I had a couple coffees in the morning before heading to the bus terminal (Terminal Terreste) and caught a 3 1/2 hour bus to Loja. The roads basically zigzag around the Andes mountains and it reminded me of my bus trip from Tibet to Nepal 5 years ago except the mountains were a little smaller than the Himalayas. I guess down here double lined roads don't mean anything as the bus driver was constantly passing people on the double lines which I didn't mind because I could see there were no vehicles coming but where I did mind was when he was passing cars and going around a corner into the oncoming traffic lane as we went around the mountain and you couldn't see if a car was coming or not. I was right behind the driver and everytime he did this I felt like tapping him on the shoulder and scolding him by shaking my finger and saying "No me gusta!!!". Mind you, there wasn't many vehicles on the road but you just never know.
I remember working in the oilfields a year ago where we were talking about South America and one older guy was always negative about South America where it seemed he had a grudge against it even though he had never been there. Well it turned out that his daughter had been down to Venezuela 10 years ago and riding on a bus down there when the driver's cigarette fell on the floor and as he was busy trying to pick it up they drove over a cliff and rolled the bus and his daughter became a parapelegic and wheelchair bound afterwards and there was a huge beauracratic ordeal just to get her back to Canada and the hospital charges he had to pay etc.... I guess I had that story was on mind as I saw my bus driver doing this.
Anyhow I got to Loja where I immediately transferred to another smaller bus bound for Vilcabamba. When I got on I realized I didn't fit and had to hunch my back over as the ceiling came up to my chin (I'm 6'3) and all the seats were cramped together and I put my 2 big suitcases down below the bus and took my day bag and lap top bag onto the bus with me and could hardly fit in a seat. I see a guy eating ice cream over on the other aisle with the ice cream woman still on the bus and I ask him "Bueno??" and he says with a big smile "Ahhh muy bueno!!" and he calls the woman over for me and I buy one which is just 30 cents. The seats are numbered to your ticket (prearrange seating) but I notice a couple people moving to any seat they wanted so I find my own seat where I basically take up 2 seats and hope that this is it for the passengers. We leave and I assume I have both seats to myself all the way to Vilcabamba which is another 1 1/2 hour drive and after 5 minutes of driving the driver stops to pick up a ton of people who take up the remaining seats along with 12 people standing in the aisle and I am completely cramped in my seat. I think "no problem" because it is only 1 1/2 hours to go and I am cramped with 2 bags on my lap and no room to even move when the ticket guy comes around 10 minutes later to see everyones tickets and everyone shows him theirs and he gets to me and I am so cramped I can't even reach into my jean pockets. I look at the guy beside me and I try to indicate to him that I need him to get up so I can stand up and reach into my jeans pocket to get my ticket but he doesn't move and instead he looks at me the way a cat or dog would look at your finger when you are pointing at something (so completely missing the point). Well the ticket guy is waiting patiently for a few minutes for me to show him my ticket and I can't move and I don't know how to say "get up" in spanish and I found that I was losing my patience quickly at this moment so I finally look at the guy beside me with big wide eyes and raise my voice and say "GET UP!" as I am indicating with my thumb towards the ceiling for him to get out of his seat. I know he didn't understand my english but I am sure he understood my tone of voice and facial expression (That is a universal language we all share). Of course I said "gracias" to him once he moved and I got my ticket out but I just can't believe some people will sit there like a log and do nothing to get out of your way when it was completely obvious that I couldn't move with him beside me.
I got to Vilcabamba at 1:30pm. It is a really peaceful and tranquil place nestled in the middle of high mountains. It got it claim to fame for being the "Valley of Longevity" because I believe some researchers from England in the 1970's came over to study the legend of these people that were living to 120 years of age and older and they didn't know what it was that allowed them to live so long and came up with some theories. Well from what little I have read that it seems it was all a prank by the locals as the old people were using the ID's of their parents and putting these researchers on for many decades. I had seen a poster of a hotel in Vilcabamba called "Izhcayluma" at the coffee shop I frequented daily in Cuenca and decided to go there but they were completely full and it had nice views over looking the valley. So she called around for me and I came to the "Jardin Escondido" which is right in town (The other place was 2km south of town) and it also has a pool. Once I got there I spent 2 hours just resting my knees and legs from being cramped on that bus.
Vilcabamba is a very small town. Probably 6 blocks by 6 blocks but there are a couple roads that go a little farther out of town with houses and stores along the way. First thing I heard when I got off the bus were pigs squeeling right beside the bus station. There are little aiport pickup trucks right beside the bus station and they cost $1US to go anywhere since the town isn't very big. The taxis in Cuenca cost $2US to go anywhere but Cuenca is much bigger than Vilcabamba. Everytime I see the name "Vilcabamba" it reminds me of that Ritchie Valens song "Vi-Vi-Vi-Viilcabamba... Arriba, arriba" or something like that LOL!
On Sunday I got up early and had the complimentary breakfast at the place I am staying. The one spanish phrase I have down pat now is "Cafe americano con leche por favour" (Because I always get what I think I am ordering) but the young girl asked me in spanish my breakfast choices (which was given to me in multiple choice fashion) and I didn't understand anything she said and so I asked her to repeat the choices again and she did and I still didn't understand and wanted to ask her to repeat herself for a 3rd time but didn't want to risk her rolling her eyes at me (It's happened a couple times already) so I thought I recognized "frigoles" as one of the choices which is beans so I said yes to that thinking that I had identified something. Well later she brings out to my surprise "eggs on toast". Well that is definitely better than "frigoles" because I was worried that she would bring out a full plate of that white corn stuff that I don't like. I got off easy this time folks!! I keep thinking I will have an incident like "I am sorry sir but you did order the "Tarantula and snake" soup".
At my hotel there is a map of Vilcabamba and it shows some good hiking trails and the tallest one being the mountain top of "Mandango" and thought that would be a great hike considering it was Sunday and most places would be closed. Of course at my hotel I read a big warning sign posted at the Reception desk for all to see warning about recent robberies of tourists by 3 men armed with machetes on the mountain (See photo). I can certainly deal with men armed with knives (Since they are all "hobbit sized" to me LOL!) but machetes is a whole new area of combat and I really wanted to go up that mountain today. I was hoping that maybe I could rent a machete for 5 hours for $5 but I wasn't holding my breath that they had any machete rental shops (Like "Bob's machete rentals") nearby considering this place doesn't have a lot of stores to begin with.
So I take precautions and leave my passport, watch, and wallet at home and just take my bag with my camera (which isn't allowed according to the warning sign or any valuables) and my ice tea and begin to try to find the entrance to this place according to the map I had seen in the hotel eating area. Well I walk a little ways out of town and see this rock wall with a big sign that you can hardly make out due to the paint fading say "Mandango Informaccion" that has the same warning sign to hikers with a buzzer to alert them of your presence because I don't see anyone in there. Well I continue walking since I know immediately they won't let me take my camera in and probably being by myself they would say "no way". Well I circled around this dirt road twice and saw no trails leading anywhere so I ask a man by the side of the road and he tells me I have to go see the "informaccion office" so I realize I won't be climbing this mountain because there is no way I am going to climb something this big with breathtaking views and not bring my camera. At this point I really did feel like buying a machete and doing the hike and then stopping by the "Informaccion office" on my way back and throwing 3 severed spanish hands onto their desk and telling the information clerk that the problem has been dealt with LOL! Geez, you can tell I am really getting into my "Last days of the Incas" book as I am starting to think like a conquistadore!
The reception at my hotel told me that the bus schedule for all buses and destinations from Vilacbamba was listed on the wall on the other side of the room so I checked it out since I need to go to Zumba before heading into Peru. Well the only time listed for Zumba departures each day was 7pm which means I would be arrive to Zumba at 12midnight or 1am which is far too late but didn't think I had a choice since that was the only bus time listed for that particular bus. The New Zealander that I met at my Cuenca hotel had told me there was one that went through Vilcabamba at 6am from Loja on its way to Zumba since he was doing the same route (and the guy who originally told me to go to the pre-incan site of "Kuelap") so after I returned from my unsuccessful Mandango excursion I decide to go to the bus station and check out the Zumba bus departures myself. I went into the first office and this young woman I spoke with was absolutely gorgeous and had a twinkle in her eye as she smiled and told me the right bus company that goes to Zumba. So I went across the road to "Sur Oriente" bus company and they were the only bus company that went to Zumba and they go 5 times a day (6am, 9:30am,3:30pm, 7pm, & 10:30pm). See folks, it pays to get second opinions down here and also to go straight to the horses mouth for information even if you only understand 25% of what the horse is trying to tell you due to the language barrier.
So I will be taking the 6am bus tomorrow (Monday) morning which should get me to Zumba by 11am and then cab it to the Peruvian border and get my Ecuadorian exit stamps out of Ecuador and my entry stamps into Peru. My next destination is "Chachapoyas" in Peru where I plan to see the pre-incan site of "Kuelap" which is a little south east of Chachapoyas.
This afternoon I will be just chilling out in the pool and my hammock and will be off first thing in the morning.
Chao
