Monday, October 31, 2011

Travelogue#24: Lima

October 24, 2011

Well on Monday morning at 6:30am "Hi-me" was suppose to pick me up for the airport and I thought I would toss him a few bucks but he didn't show and at 6:45am I grabbed another motorcycle taxi to the Iquitos airport. My airline ticket was with Peruvian airlines and when it was my turn to go up to the check-in desk I realized it was "Cristina" (who owns the Iguana hotel where I was staying at) working the counter. I knew she had a job and worked late but didn't realize it was with the airlines. I was expecting to pay extra for my luggage since the woman who originally sold me my ticket said I would have to pay $9US and it was listed on my ticket but Cristina didn't mention it and let me through.


I noticed when I got my luggage back from the suitcase retrieval area in Lima that I had 2 big holes in one of my suitcases. Cristina had originally asked me if I had any glass or breakable stuff which I did and she did advise that I not put it in the luggage since they get tossed around and slammed etc... and after seeing the 2 big holes in my suitcase I realized why she was concerned. I grabbed a taxi ride to the district of Miraflores and for a 25 minute ride it was more than 3 nights accommodation at the place I am staying but I didn't want to lug around all my luggage to the bus stops since it seemed like more of a hassle just to save some money.


I am staying at a place called "Casa del Mochilero" which is the cheapest place in my Lonely Planet guidebook by at least 1/2 price ($5US per night) of the second cheapest place. When your place gets mentioned in LP then it is definitely guaranteed to become a goldmine of a business as so many travelers go off of it. "Pilar" is the woman who runs the place and I see there must be 10-15 people already staying here. She gave me a map of Miraflores and central Lima and showed me where everything is.


I like Lima and it is by far the best city/town in South America that I have been to so far. It seems more modern than most of the others. When I walk into the grocery stores I see a lot of stuff I want to buy and can't say that for most of the supermarkets I have been to. I walked along the beaches in Miraflores which is a huge cliff down to the sea.


Before it got dark I decided to walk over to a big 1500 year old pyramid site called "Huaca Pucllana" that is located in Miraflores where I met a Simon and his wife from UK and because my camera battery died right upon paying for my ticket and entering the site they were kind enough to say they would email me some pictures and I could use their camera for any pictures which was really nice of them. We had a guided tour in english which lasted about 40 minutes.


For tomorrow I will head to central Lima and check out some historical sites and museums down there. Our tour guide from the site "Huaca Pucllana" brought us to an area where there were llamas and guinea pigs and many plants and told us this cactus plant was a hallucingen plant which quickly grabbed my attention and I inquired more about it and told him about my ayahuasca in Iquitos and he told me there was a market in Central Lima where they sell all that sort of stuff and showed me on my map so I will be looking for that place tomorrow as well.


"Yes, I'll take 3kg of peyote and 2lbs of mescaline to go please".


I called Jennifer a couple hours ago and hope to hook up with her tomorrow after she gets off work in the evening. I really need her as my english/spanish interpreter so I can get a much needed haircut!

Miraflores Lima

Miraflores Lima

Miraflores Lima

The beach in Miraflores.

Miraflores Lima

Miraflores.

Miraflores Lima- Huaca Pucllana adobe pyramid.

As I was searching on my map for "Huaca Pucllana" in the Miraflores area and thinking it was some tiny ruin tucked away somewhere I looked down this street when I realized it was a big pyramid about the size of a football field. Built around 400AD from adobe mud bricks. My camera battery died after this shot but I didn't realize it until I paid for my ticket and walked into the site.

Miraflores Lima- Huaca Pucllana adobe pyramid

(Photo: Compliments of Simon from UK)
Huaca Pucllana adobe pyramid in Miraflores Lima.

Miraflores Lima- Huaca Pucllana adobe pyramid

(Photo: Compliments of Simon from UK)
Me, Simon, and our guide for the site of Huaca Pucllana.

Miraflores Lima- Huaca Pucllana adobe pyramid

(Photo: Compliments of Simon from UK)
Here is Simons wife. I am in the background with the guide. This is a good shot of the pyramid in relation to the buildings in Miraflores Lima.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Travelogue#25: Lima

October 25, 2011

Well Tuesday morning I grab a quick coffee at McDonalds and then grab a taxi to see some other ruins nearby. I tell the cabbie where I want to go and then ask how much and he says "10 soles" which I think is too much considering I can be driven all the way to downtown Lima for that much so I counter at "6 soles" and then he counters me at "8 soles" and then I say "5 soles" at which point he laughs as he realizes I am not haggling the way most people do. The more you try haggling with me the less money you will get until you have to take me across town for free.


He drops me off in another neighborhood where the ruins are and tells me "Ciudado" (Be careful) and as I understand he is telling me it is a bad neighborhood I say "ladrons?" (Thieves) and he says "Si! Si! Ladrons!!". So I am at "Huaca Huallamarca" which isn't nearly as big as the pyramid I saw yesterday but was worth the visit. After that I grab a cab to downtown Lima and get dropped off at the main plaza square which is where the president of Lima lives and they have a changing of the guard ceremony everyday at 12 noon outside his building and kitty corner to his place off the main plaza is the "Cathedral of Lima" where Francisco Pizarro's coffin and remains are so I head in there first. There was controversy over whether this was really Pizarro's remains after he was assassinated on June 26th 1541 but after doing analysis on the bones and all the stab markings into the bones they realized it was his remains.


After that I went to the "Monasterio de San Francisco" which has catacombes underneath it but they don't allow people to take photos in there. After that I was wandering around some of the streets downtown and came across the Peruvian Congress building and beside it was the "Museo de la inquisition" which was the location of the spanish inquisition between 1570-1870. Later on I tried to find that big market that our guide was telling us about yesterday but couldn't find it so just caught a cab back to Miraflores. You really have to know your cab prices here or they try to rip you off or you have to counter them at 50% of whatever they say and you are probably in the ball park.


Jennifer is coming by at 5pm after her work shift is over and I am going to sleep for an hour now after I throw up some more pictures from today.

Lima Peru

This was in the little museum at "Huaca Huallamarca" of a woman from 900AD.

Lima Peru

This is the adobe mud pyramid at "Huaca Huallamarca".

Lima Peru

This is at the main square in downtown Lima called "Plaza de Armas" and "la Catedral de Lima" in the back where Francisco Pizarro's remains are.

Lima Peru

That is Francisco Pizarro's coffin on the right and probably a painting of him in his conquistadore armour up top.

Lima Peru

Inside "La Catedral de Lima".

Lima Peru

This is the Peruvian government building where the president of Peru lives.

Lima Peru

This is San Cristobal where there are good views of the entire city of Lima. Of course I was too lazy to go up and take pictures.

Lima Peru

This is the Peruvian congress building. That is a statue of Simon Bolivar who helped give many of these latin american countries their independence from Spain.

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Travelogue#26: Lima

October 26, 2011

Well I met up with Jennifer at 4:30pm at my place on Tuesday and we caught a bus to another district of Lima since she had to pick up a baby shower card that she had especially made at a shop for (60 soles/$20US) which was a fancy card that had 8 pages to it. From there we got a taxi to another area of town since I needed a haircut and we found a place. A guy named "Abraham" who had blue hair was my barber. He wore a holster around his waist for carrying his scissors and combs etc... and it only cost me 15 soles ($5US) and that included washing my hair as well.


After my haircut we grabbed another taxi to Jennifer's favourite restaurant since she wanted me to try authenic Peruvian (Creole) food and we ordered some "Pisco sours" which is Peru's national alcoholic drink which was much better than the Pisco sours we had in Chachapoyas. Jennifer ordered our meal which had a variety of different things on the plate. We started with the meat and as I was half way done eating mine Jennifer informs me I am eating COWS HEART! I told her we don't eat hearts or any organs of the animals but I was surprised that the cows heart tasted very good like a nice steak. We also had tamales and we had white corn on the cob and it was a little better than what I had elsewhere but I still didn't like it. I was pretty tired at 8pm and she took me home in the taxi. When I come back to Lima on my last weekend here (November 18-20th) we plan to go north of Lima to an old ruin site called "Caral" since she only has weekends off from her work.


On Wednesday morning I went for my morning coffee at McDonalds and as I walked back I stopped into a few of the airline companies in Miraflores. The first one that I went into was LAN Airlines and asked about a flight from "Lima to Cuzco" and she asked if I was a national and I said "No" and then she quotes me $301US for that flight!! I couldn't believe it and like I said in another blog entry LAN has the audacity to charge non Peruvian residents an extra $175US on top of their ticket whether they are from Chile, Paraguay, or Canada. I then went next door to "Star Peru" and they quoted me $118US for the same flight and then I went next door to the other airline company that I used in Iquitos which is Peruvian Airlines and their quote was $92US. Later on I went to Taca airlines and I noticed there were a lot of Peruvians waiting in line to speak with a Taca airline person so I thought it might be cheaper and was shocked when she quoted me $181US. So it pays to shop around!! Actually Peruvian airlines seems to be the best and the one I used from Iquitos to Lima.


The airlines charge extra for luggage beyond 25kg and I do have one suitcase full of stuff that I really don't need so when I got back to my place I asked Pilar if I could leave one suitcase with her since I will be returning and she gave me lots of information about Cuzco and has many contacts there for Inca trail treks and accommodations that I will get off of her.


At 12 noon I took a mini-bus which is a van full of people paying 25 cents and then took another bus 30 km south of Lima to an ancient site called "Pachacamac" which was an important site even 1500 years before the Incas. It is nothing more than piles of dirt where you can see some mud brick structures and a pyramid of the son but it probably wouldn't interest most people due to it not being restored fully yet. Unless of course you get excited when you see big mounds of dirt then this place might be for you.


So I did buy my Lima-Cuzco airline ticket with Peruvian airlines which leaves at 9:30am on Thursday. I will spend a least a week there and hopefully go out and see Vilcabamba and Vitcos along with Machu Pichu and Wayne Pichu which together should just take one day but I will decide all this once I get there and do some due diligence on the best route since it does get awfully pricey when it comes to tours from Cuzco.

Lima Peru

At the barber shop and had "Abraham" with his blue hair as my barber. After this haircut I felt 2 pounds lighter on my feet!!

Lima Peru

This was the Peruvian/creole dish that Jennifer and I had. The meat is cow's heart which surprisingly was really good. The green thing is a Tamal and the white corn on the cob and the round balls were like a potato and there was a baked potatoe in there. Beside Jennifer is her "Pisco Sour" drink since I had already pounded mine back as soon as I got it. My purple drink is purple corn juice which tasted better than grape juice!

Lima Peru

I thought I would give Peruvian Airlines a plug here for domestic flights in Peru since they are by far the cheapest. Peruvians and foreigners pay the same price with them. Imagine that! My Lima- Cuzco 1-way prices were LAN Airlines $301US- TACA Airlines $180US- Star Peru airlines $118US and Peruvian Airlines $92US.

Lima Peru- Pachacamac ruins

This is the pyramid of the sun at Pachacamac and on the other side is the Pacific ocean. These gravel roads took you from site to site.

Lima Peru- Pachacamac ruins

This is the entrance to the pyramid of the sun but it is closed off to tourists as they are still excavating and restoring it.

Lima Peru- Pachacamac ruins

This is at the top of the pyramid of the sun on the other side facing the Pacific Ocean which is only about 200 meters away.

Lima Peru- Pachacamac ruins

This is at the other end of the site. About a 1km walk. An old ramp in the far right.

Lima Peru- Pachacamac ruins

Peruvian tax dollars hard at work! 1 guy digging and 3 guys watching. They would make good city workers back in Canada since they got the right attitude. If that was my job I would be sleeping in that wheelbarrow until my shift was over!

Friday, October 28, 2011

Summary of book "The last days of the Incas"

I had read a book called " Conquistadores" by Budd Levy on the conquistadors 2 year campaign in Mexico against the Aztecs between 1519-1521 with Hernan Cortes and bought another book called "The last days of the Incas" by Kim MacQuarrie. The internet was down for the weekend so I read about a third of it which is about Fransico Pizarro and the conquistadores invasion into Central and South America and the defeat of the Incas. Hernan Cortes showed up with 200 conquistadores and using Machivellian tactics (Machivelli just wrote his book "The Prince" about 10 years earlier) by befriending the enemies of his enemies and took over the Aztec empire of modern day Mexico.

Franscico Pizarro was apparently a 2nd cousin to Hernan Cortes and most of the Conquistadores grew up in the same area of Spain coincidently. Pizarro came over to the New World in 1502 where modern day Haiti/Dominican republic was the place the spanish had thier original settlements and Pizarro had earned an estate from his participation in these conquests where he could have lived comfortably in Panama and was one of the first Europeans to discover the Pacific Ocean while he lived in Panama but like all conquistadores they don't just want some estate but want to join the spanish "elites" by ruling and governing their own conquered countries like Hernan Cortes was doing in Mexico. According to this book, conquistadores were not trained soldiers as much as they were entrepreneurs who would form a "corporation" with a CEO in charge and different conquistadores could invest in it like a stock by lending their horses, armour and weapons, ships, crops they grew etc... and they would get more of the booty if they invested more just like a modern day stock on a stockexchange.

Pizarro had formed 2 previous expeditions in the late 1520's and had gone down the coast of South America and saw lots of gold and silver that the Incas had which they were mainly after and he knew it was just a matter of time where word of this discovery would get out to other competing conquistadores about all this gold so he sailed to Spain immediately to get authority from the King of Spain for the sole right to claim the west coast of South America for the Spanish king. The Queen of Spain had an agreement draw up where Pizarro would have authority in South America on behalf of the King of Spain and that the King of Spain would not have to invest a dime into Pizarros expeditions (which Pizarro would have to finance himself like Cortes had done) and like Cortes agreement, the King of Spain would get 20% of all the booty (Gold, silver, merchandise, land, crops, slaves, etc...). Of course they didn't call it "plunder and booty" in their agreement and it had a more legalistic name to it (just so they didn't seem like pirates I guess).

Like Cortes in Mexico, when Pizarro came back to start his 3rd campaign in Ecuador after returning from Spain he would find the local Indians dying off from the small pox that the Europeans brought over with them and just 5 years earlier the Incan Emperor "Huayna Capac" had died of Small pox and now 2 of his sons (half brothers- Atahualpa from the North and Huascar from the south) were fighting each other over who would be the new Incan ruler. Atahualpa from the north had won and had his half brother "Huascar" held by his generals and made to watch the executions of his wives and children and all blood relatives before being made to march north by foot to his half brothers location. It was right after this 5 year civil war battle between these 2 competing Inca brothers that Pizarro and his conquistadores had just arrived for their 3rd expedition since the previous 2 expeditions were failures.

The new Incan emperor had been getting regular reports from his running scouts of all the conquistadores movements and activities right down to the specific details and number of casualities on each of their invasions and the new Incan emperor "Atahualpa" was curious about these strange white men with beards and metal armour riding on top of strange beasts so let them come closer to his location. There were only 168 conquistadores with Pizarro and the Incan emperor had 80,000 men at his desposal at that one location and the Inca emperor planned at some point to kill all the 168 conquistadores off since they were out numbered and then ride back to Cuzco to get his coronation as the new Inca emperor but first he wanted to satisfy his curiosity about the strange white foreigners. Pizarro invited the Inca emperor with 7000 of his generals, chiefs, and warriors who could fit into the walled town at Cajamarca and the other 73,000 Inca warriors couldn't fit into the walled city so stayed on the outskirts of the town and the 168 conquistadores were hiding out inside the stone buildings inside this town where they thought it would be certain death for them.

The Spanish Conquistadores were very arrogant and had told the Incas through translators that they were going to convert all the Incas to become Christians and the Inca emperor when presented with the bible basically threw it down on the ground which is when Pizarro gave the order to attack and 168 conquistadores bursted out of the stone buildings on command where some had horses and razor sharp swords and cannons in a "shock and awe" type of attack against the 7000 trapped Incas in the walled town of Cajamarca where it caught them off guard since the Incas thought it was obvious that the conquistadores were out numbered (400 to 1) and they weren't expecting it since they had heard from their scouts that the Conquistadors were hiding in the stone houses in complete fear (which was partially true of course when they realized their situation) and basically the conquistadores slaughtered all 7000 in the walled town within a matter of 2 hours without even one conquistadore casualty.

Pizarro immediately took the Inca Emperor "Atahualpa" as a hostage and was able to use him as a puppet leader getting him to run his empire just like Hernan Cortes had done after taking "Montezuma" as a hostage 13 years earlier. The Inca Emperor had told Pizarro he would give him a room full of gold as a ransom so he could buy his freedom. Pizarro wrote up an agreement with the help of his notaries (since Pizarro and most of the Conquistadores were illiterate) knowing full well he wasn't going to live up to his end of the agreement in the end. This was his one chance (like Cortes in Mexico) at victory and there was no way he was going to let the Inca emperor go free since that would have been the end of them. Take out the leader which is the head (Inca Emperor) and the body (Inca empire) crumbles. Hearing rumours of an oncoming Inca army towards the conquistadores they got frightened and decided to execute Atahualpa even though the emperor told them that there was no army since only he could give the order to make it happen. Well they didn't believe him and thought a good ole fashion burning was in order but after much discussion with the Spanish Friars that the Emperor had agreed to convert to Christianity so he could have another death that didn't involve burning his body since the Incas were superstitious about this in relation to the "afterlife". Of course after they executed Ayahualpa they realized the advancing Inca army was just a rumour since their wasn't one approaching.

From here the Conquistadores head down to the Inca capital of Cuzco (where Machu Pichu is located near) and after a quick battle take over the city and find another half brother (Manco Inca) who had been in hiding for his life for 5 years to become the new Inca puppet Emperor for the Conquistadores. It is amazing how such a small group of conquistadores (168) who have military technology over the Incas with armed horses which were their main weapon that killed the most on the battle field as well as swords, guns and cannons along with a good communication system during battle to form the best battle plans against such high numbers of Incas.

The Inca empire had only really been an empire for 90 years prior to Pizarro and the Spanish conquistadors showing up in South America in the 1530's. Hernan Cortes had shown up in Mexico in 1519 and was pretty much in control of Mexico by 1521 using machivellian techniques on each indian tribe and taking their Aztec leader hostage and consolidating power to himself and the Conquistadores. The conquistadores rarely had casualities in their many battles compared to the Incas since they had superior military technology and strategy for each situation where the Aztecs and Incas just had numbers that totally outnumbered the conquisadores by 500:1 type of ratios. It just proves if you have the knowledge and know-how that being outnumbered in a battle doesn't mean much if you use your resources properly. The Conquistadores excelled at this.

It was in the early 1400's (Around the same time of Joan of Arc in France) that the Incas were a small tribe and were being attacked by other tribes expanding their own empires. It was then that the son of the then Inca king took control of the Inca army and defeated these invading tribes one after another with obvious military skill and basically turned out to be like an "Alexander the Great" for the Incas as he had many victories expanded the little Inca village into a sizeable empire taking over most of Peru which is basically when the Inca "Operation: Kick ass" would commence as the next generation (his son) took over the rest of the territory to form the full Inca empire by the mid 1400's which was really Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador with probably parts of northern Chile and southern Colombia as well. The Incas had never even heard of their northern neighbors "the Aztecs" who ruled the area of modern day Mexico because the Incas only knew of the history in their territories. It is interesting that many parts of the world didn't have contact with each other but they begin doing the same things during their development as a society (Like the 100th monkey syndrome).

After the Conquistadores executed the Incan emperor "Athualpa" believing that he had planned an sneak attack on them behind their backs which wasn't the case and so the Conquistadors later attacked Cuzco (Where they knew all the Inca gold was stored) which was the Inca Capital and took possession of it and they found the 17 year old half brother (Manco Inca) of the old Incan emperor that they had just executed who had been in hiding for the last few years believing that the Inca emperor (his half brother) was going to kill off every possible heir to challenge his position (Just like the good old Roman days!). So Pizarro and the Conquistadores decided to make this 17 year old name "Manco Inca" their puppet Incan emperor as they went about consolidating power through this young heir and getting all the gold and silver they could to send back to Spain.

Pizarro left some Conquistadores in Cuzco to guard the capital and he went on to found his own city which is modern day Lima Peru. I don't know if anyone has seen the movie "A bug's life" where there is a small group of Elite (the grasshoppers) ruling the masses even though they are completely outnumbered by the ants. The conquistadores were in a similar situation where the conquistadores were out numbered 10,000 to 1 or more but forces their way into the Inca power structure and fed off the hard work of the Incas (sounds like a virus). Even though the young puppet emperor "Manco Inca" gives them everything they want believing they are here to liberate the Incas but it doesn't take long for the Incas and the young puppet emperor to realize the foreigners are only interested in the gold and silver and sucking all the resources from them and are always demanding more and they treat the new puppet emperor like shit and even one of Pizarro's younger brothers (Gonzales Pizzaro) decides he wants the new emperors wife (The queen) as his own and the conquistadors indulge to the extreme living like fat cats in this new land.

Well over a couple years the young puppet emperor who is at the top of the Inca pecking order where nothing can happen without his approval realizes the foreigners are just parasites milking them for everything and he escapes and organizes an Inca uprising around 1536AD and stays at a hidden location getting daily information on the Conquistadores movements through their Inca runner system. I mean stealing the emperors queen is just pushing the limits I think!! Take their gold but stay away from their women. That was one of the main things that were pissing off the Incas was the spanish showing up and taking the Inca mens pretty wives for their own cucubines. Their indulgence had no limits!! "I see it and now I want it!" mentality.

This young emperor was the great great grandson of that Inca Emperor of the early 1400's that made the Inca empire what it was. Knowing that they can't beat the Conquistadores with their invincible horses on the battlefield no matter how many Incas they have they finally change their strategy to guerrilla warfare and do small ambushes that turn out successfully for the Incas when there are only a few conquistadores or hide in narrow passage ways and ambush the Conquistadors successfully that way where their horses power is neutralized. In 5 years the Incas with their 10's of 1000's of warriors were only able to kill 30 spaniards (not very impressive eh? Hard to kill someone with stones when they are wearing metal armour) but with guerrilla warfare tactics were able to kill 40 spaniards in a 2 month period. Then they assembled all available Inca tribes around the area of modern day Peru to the Inca capital of Cuzco and cut off the conquistadors communication with the Conquistadors in Lima Peru where Francisco Pizzaro was building his new city.

Even with the 10's of 1000's of Incas attacking Cuzco (where Manco Inca was orchestrating the whole thing with his generals at an undisclosed location) the 190 conquistadores defending Cuzco were able to fend them off with only a few Conquistadore casualties. When you have metal armour, horses, and superior weapons and military experience (from fighting the Moors in Spain in the late 1400's) the Conquistadors were quite efficient leaving 100's of Incas dead of each day of fighting. The Incas had captured a spanish conquistadore on one of their ambushes and kept him alive and that spanish conquistadore had convinced Manco Inca that if he sent the heads of the dead spanish soldiers along with the ripped up paper (letters intercepted from Pizarro in Lima) then the conquistadors would be in fear and the Incas would get the upper hand. I thought this was clever on the part of the spanish soldier since he knew that the conquistadors in Cuzco had lost contact with the Conquistadors in Lima where the Governor General Francisco Pizzaro was since the Incas had broken those lines of communication and they didn't know whether they were dead from the Inca uprising or still alive and were deciding to try to break through the Inca army surrounding Cuzco to reach Lima but when they received the 5 spanish heads with the ripped up paper letters (which was just magical symbols to the Incas since they had no written language) it told the trapped Conquistadores in Cuzco that the Conquistadores had to still be in Lima Peru who were trying to send a telegram to the other Conquistadors in Cuzco so there was no need to try a suicide mission to break through the Inca army surrounding Cuzco since they knew Pizzaro and the Conquistadores were still in Lima.

At this point the Conquistadore who were totally in control up to the point of the Inca rebellion where their luck had changed for the worst and were desperate for fresh recruits since there were now only 400 conquistadores in South America (190 in Cuzco and 200 in Lima) trying to control the whole population (Millions of Incas) so Governor General Franciso Pizzaro wrote a letter to Hernan Cortes's 2nd in command in Mexico asking for help on behalf of the king of Spain (Since the king of Spain gets 20% of all the booty in Mexico and South American from the Conquistadores and definitely wants to keep this little gold and silver mine in production flowing to Spain for other wars in Europe).

It is amazing how fate can change on the turn of a dime. First the Emperor Athualpa who was the main emperor to confront the Conquistadors in 1532 where he was in complete control with his 80,000 troops against 200 or so Conquistadors and within 2 hours of that surprise attack from the Conquistadors where 7000 Incas were trapped and killed in that town by the Conquistadors and then the Inca Emperor was taken hostage by the Conquistadors where he was then essentially powerless and at the mercy of the Conquistadors (Just in a 2 hour period things changed when the Incas least expected it!). With "Manco Inca" as the Conquistadors "puppet Incan Emperor" things changed in a 2 month period as well where they had complete control over the infrastructure and within 2 months of the puppet emperor starting an Inca uprising now the Conquistadores are at the edge of extinction. Fate can be quite elusive at times.

Well with the Conquistadores divided by the Incas in Cuzco and Lima, the Inca emperor Manco (Who was hand picked to be the conquistadors puppet emperor) had his best general (who was the only Inca general successful against the Conquistadors in the Andes mountains using guerilla warfare and ambushes taking advantage of the steep topography of the land to neutralize the powerful effectiveness of the Conquistadors horses and marched 50,000 Incas to Lima and surrounded it with only 190 Conquistadores inside plus other tribes who were allied with the Conquistadors and the Incas attacked and the 100 Conquistadores on horses just massacred them on the open flat areas of the city so the Incas retreated and the Great Inca General decided that to take Lima they would have to do a "shock and awe" approach and have the whole Inca army try to overwhelm the few spanish defending Cuzco. Unfortunately the Incas believed in having their generals and leaders lead the troops into battle (to inspire the troops) so they were the first that the spanish would encounter on the battlefield and the General and his other commanders were wiped out immediately by the Conquistadors and without any Inca leadership the big army fell apart where the leaders of the Conquistadors (Pizarro) would stay far enough behind the action so to dictate and lead the men.

On a side note, Pizzaro who would be 64 years old  and had a 17 year old Inca mistress in Lima and she was ironically the rebel Inca Emperor's (Mancos Inca) sister! Kind of strange but then again the previous Inca emperor Athualpa was busy trying to kill off all his brothers who could challenge his position as Inca Emperor. So not the closest family. When it came to power the Incas were similar to the Romans and would ruthlessly kill any family member that could possibly be a threat to them as their role as Inca emperor.

After they repelled the Inca forces with such few conquistadors, Francisco Pizzaro's old partner (Diego de Almagro) for the Conquest who was given the land of Chile (by the King of Spain) had just returned after finding nothing of value except fierce warrior tribes in Chile (who would resist the conquistadors invasions for another 200 years). At this point Diego de Almagro and his 500 conquistadors wanted some of Pizarro's booty and realized Peru was the treasure chest of South America and attacked the city of Cuzco where Francisco Pizarro's brothers (Gonzalo and Hernando) and a 100 other Conquistadores had been defending from the Incas for the past year and he over took these conquistadors by a surprise attack at 2am and claimed Cuzco for himself. Once they repelled the Incas they are busy fighting themselves to get that booty$$ that they all have dreamed of since arriving. At this point 500 Conquistadors from Mexico have just arrived in northern Peru who answered Francisco Pizzaro's letter for desperate need of assistance.

So with the failed attack on the Conquistadors in Lima with his 50,000 Inca warriors against 100 conquistadors plus thousands of allied native tribesmen with them and with his messengers now telling "Manco Inca" that 500 more conquistadors just returned from the south in Chile (Diego de Almagro) and now 500 more conquisadors are arriving from the north (From Hernan Cortes in Mexico to help stop the rebellion), the 21 year old Inca emperor "Manco Inca" realizing if he can't beat 100 conquistadors then he definitely can't beat 1000 more conquistadors so he decides to find another safer place to hide with his other Inca elites to continue the Inca rebellion.

Like the Egyptians, the Incas mummified the old Inca emperors going back to the first Emperor who started the Inca Empire 100 years earlier. Some of these competing conquistadors are sending letters to Manco Inca to side with him but he knows from his experience that the bearded foreigners only lie with their words and doesn't trust them. Hell, the conquistadors don't even trust themselves since they are always suspicious of each others movements and agendas. It is like being in a room with a pot of gold in the middle and you are looking at the competition eyeing up the gold trying to anticipate their thoughts with what they are planning to do since you know they all want the gold for themselves. Manco Inca had originally escaped from the Conquistadors in Cuzco after they had heard he had been planning an Inca rebellion and he knew how much they loved gold and just told Hernando Pizzaro (Franciso's brother looking after Cuzco) that he wanted to do a religious ceremony at a sacred Inca site and promised to bring back a gold statue for him and although Hernando's brothers had warned him not to let him go because of what they had heard, Hernando could only think about the gold and thought the young innocent Inca puppet Emperor would never do such a thing since he was such a good little puppet emperor of theirs. Seems like young Manco had studied the Conquistadors enough to know their buttons. Once he was allowed to leave Cuzco it would be 8 years of him orchestrating the Inca rebellion against the bearded foreign invaders. Of course once the Inca leader left and didn't return with the promised gold I am sure Hernando Pizzaro realizing he was duped by his own selfish greed by the young puppet emperor had one of those Homer Simpson "DOH!!" moments. If he didn't let him go they would have had the empire secured and no more unnecessary fighting for another 36 years since nothing can happen without the Inca emperor's approval.

Manco Inca would start a guerilla warfare campaign against the Conquistadors since the Conquistadors would always wipe them out on a battlefield no matter how many Inca warriors outnumbered the spaniards. Francisco Pizarro's old partner "Diego de Almagro" returned from Chile with his troops and they didn't find any treasure so decided to attack Pizarro's conquistadores in Cuzco and over took them. Diego De Almagro made the mistake of not killing both the captured Pizarro brothers (Gonzales and Hernando) and later released them to make peace but Franciso Pizarro had received troops from Hernan Cortez in Mexico and now the conquistadors are fighting each other and the Pizarros win and later execute Diego de Almagro and then go searching to find the Inca rebel emperor Manco Inco and capture his queen as Manco escapes. Manco sends a message to Francisco Pizarro that he wants surrender terms which Pizarro is happy about and sends him servants and gifts and telling Manco he will be pardoned but Manco kills all the servants that Pizarro sends to him and in retaliation Pizarro then executes his beloved queen (those he loves most) and his top Inca priests are all burned at the stake.

Is anybody bored yet???..... OK good. Lets continue.....

In 1540 Hernando Pizarro returned to Spain with some gold for the king (a bargaining chip) and to plea his case in executing Diego de Almagro but even with the best lawyers that money can buy he was sentenced to 23 years in jail. In 1541 many of Diego de Almagro's men decided to assassinate Francisco Pizarro in Lima and one of the 20 assassins confessed to a priest about this assassination plot during "confession time" at the local church and the priest warned Pizarro about this plot but Pizarro didn't take it seriously and on June 26th the 20 assassins showed up at his house where he was entertaining guests and most of his guests ran for their lives except for 4 who fought along side Pizarro before they all died. Most of these assassins died within a year of the assassination but 6 escaped and were "wanted men" so the only place they could seek refuge was with the rebel Inca emperor Manco Inca who was happy about the assassination of Pizarro and gave the 6 assassins refuge where they trained the Inca warriors against spanish attacks and the emperor regularly dined and played games with Pizarro's assassins over 2 years but these 6 assassins had no plans to live there forever but were patiently waiting for things to change in Peru (with Pizarro now gone) and a new leadership appointed by the King of Spain to take over where they could reintegrate into spanish society and 2 years later that happened and at that point the assassins decided it was now convenient to kill Manco Inca while they played horseshoes alone with the Inca emperor and then rode as fast as they could to Cuzco to inform them that they had killed the rebel Inca emperor and would be forgiven for killing Francisco Pizarro but the Incas caught up to them before they could and killed all 6 of them but now did not have a leader.

With Hernando Pizarro in jail for 23 years, Gonzalo was the last Pizarro brother in Peru and with this new appointed leader to now take over governorship of Peru that the Pizarro's and conquistadors had fought and risked their lives for he wasn't going to let this new governor appointed by the King of Spain just walk in and take over an empire they had fought for. So Gonzalo Pizarro rebelled against the King of Spain and in the process of getting spanish supporters killed 340 conquistadors who wouldn't support him which was more than the Incas were able to kill in all the previous years and he even caught and decapitated the Kings appointed leader of Peru. There was no way he was going to hand over control of the land he and his conquistadores had fought so hard for over the past 15 years just to pass it to some King appointed representitive who never dropped an ounce of blood for it. Once these guys get a taste of power they just can't let it go.

Well Gonzalo had never lost a battle and after 3 1/2 years (1548) the King of Spain sends another man to Peru who assembles an army but the King of Spain has secretly made backdoor deals with many of Gonzalo's men without him knowing about it and at the last minute as they are getting prepared for battle most of his men leave him at the last minute and he surrenders peacefully and the very next day they execute him by chopping off his head and taking away all his possessions and demolitioning all his homes and salting the earth where those homes were (all on the same day!!). Yeah, they didn't like him too much. So by 1548 all the Pizarro brothers are dead except for Hernando that is rotting in a jail cell back in Spain for 23 years. So happily ever after for all 5 of the Pizarro brothers.

After Manco Inca was assassinated in 1544 by the 7 spaniards (who also killed Francisco Pizarro in Lima) after giving them refuge from the Conquistadors. 16 years later in 1560 his son "Titu Cusi" would become the new Inca emperor at the age of 30 while they conducted guerilla warfare against the occupying conquistadors. He would later die of an illness in 1571 and then they appointed the last Inca emperor "Tupac Amaru" who would reign for only 16 months. The Incas didn't want the Conquistadors to know that Titu Cusi had died since it would show the conquistadors that the Incas were now weak and vulnerable so the Incas would just kill all missionaries and messengers that tried to send conquistadors messages to them and the Conquistadors took this as "unfriendly behaviour" so they planned to launch a final assault and squash the Inca rebellion once and for all that had been going on for 36 years beginning with Manco Inca in 1536.

The conquistadors beat them as they always do and chased the new Inca emperor 200 miles since there was a nice bounty on his head to any conquistador who caught him (9lbs of gold per year for the rest of their lives and the conquistadors childrens lives for the Conquistadore who catches the Incan emperor).

So they caught him and brought him back for a mock kangaroo court style of justice that even the best lawyer could not have helped since it was necessary for the Conquistadors to stamp out the last Inca emperor for good. He spends 3 days in "court" in September 1572 and they carry out the execution by beheading the next day. Surprising just before they are about to execute the last Inca Emperor "Tupac Amaru" he gives a speech in his own Inca language (Quechua) to his people so the spaniards won't understand it and he tells them the previous Inca leaders including himself have always deceived them by pretending they hear their orders from the sun god where it is all made up just to get the Inca people to get behind the Inca elites causes etc... The Inca people who were crying for their condemned Inca emperor were probably a little shocked to hear that confession!


The last 80 pages are about Hiram Bingham and how he discovered Machu Pichu and Vitco within a couple weeks apart from each discovery in 1911. Bingham would meet with other local Peruvian researchers and historians on the Incas and pick their brains using the clues/manuscripts from the Incas and Conquistadors descriptions of Vilcabamba (The Last Inca capital) and Vitco of 300 years before and then go out to those areas and offered the local people "financial rewards" if they would take Hiram Bingham to any ruins in the areas where they believed these places to be.

Within 2 weeks of arriving Hiram Bingham discovers Machu Pichu (or at least gets the credit for it) even though it is the local farmers and peasants that lead him to these ruins. As he is up there at Machu Pichu in 1911 he sees another explorers name written on one of the walls "Lizarraga, 1902" which was 9 years before Hiram Bingham.

National Geographic dedicates a whole issue to Hiram Bingham's discovery of Machu Pichu (Translates to "Old Peak") and he finally gets the world fame, status, and attention that he has always seeked. He brings a few other scholars in their various fields on his expedition and another guy is there to study the insects etc... and tells Hiram about a white rock (Chuquipalta) he spots which turns out to be another big discovery about the Incas and Hiram takes credit for it claiming he accidently found it but after later researchers go through both of their independant journals/diaries they realize the other guy found it first and must have told Hiram about it since the ruins were Hirams interest (Chuquipalta- A giant white rock that rose up beside a natural spring which the Incas used and was written about by the early spanish conquistadors).

Hiram Bingham had mistakenly claimed that "Machu Pichu" was the "Lost city of Vilcabamba" until a year after Binghams death an American named "Gene Savoy" came to Peru iun 1964 and retraced Binghams steps 40 years later and followed the old Inca trail and eventually came to one of the ruin sites where the Inca trail stops that Bingham had only spent a couple days at in 1911 and didn't give it much importance. Gene Savoy and his workers began hacking away the thick vines and vegetation that had overtaken the ancient city for 400 years and after a week of cutting they would find more stone buildings where it began to look like a huge ancient city instead of just a couple stone ruins when Bingham was there. Bingham didn't investigate for very long and couldn't see the invisible city that was hidden within the jungle that was vastly larger than Machu Pichu.

Cuzco is where most of the Inca ruins are located since it was the old Inca capital.

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Travelogue#27: Cuzco

October 27, 2011

Before I left Lima, Pilar who owns the place I was staying at gave me lots of good information and good contacts for Cuzco, Puno (Lake Titicaca) and Arequipa and also allowed me to leave a suitcase case with her which I will pick up just before I leave on my flight back to Canada on November 23rd. There was a South Africa guy at her place that is staying in Lima until December so I lent him my "Last days of the Incas" book and he lent me his Hiram Bingham book "The lost city of the Incas".


My flight from Lima to Cuzco was at 9:30am and it only took 1 hour. Realizing ahead of time that there would be unscrupulous taxi drivers waiting for me outside ready to make me pay 3 times the going fare I decided to ask a tour operator that was located in the airport in Cuzco and he said 10 soles ($3.33US) to get into Cuzco and then I went outside and 2 of them quoted me 25 soles and I laughed and then the one says "OK how much you pay me?" (Obviously he was just measuring my level of ignorance for Cuzco prices) and I said "10 soles" and he asked who was going to give me a ride for 10 soles so I went back in and retrieved my luggage from the luggage carousel and the tour operator brought me out to meet his friend "Cesar" who arranges Tours so he took me to my place (that Pilar had recommended) for 10 soles and after I checked the room and checked-in I sat down with Cesar to see his tour prices he offered.


I originally told him I would be getting a second price so he better be giving me some competitive prices. To go out to Vilcabamba or Vitcos (which were the last 2 capitals of the Incas after the Conquistadores took over their old capital Cuzco) are not popular group tours so would be really expensive for one person and I am sure they are just more ruins that only an archaeologist could appreciate anyhow. After meeting with Cesar I had some coco tea which is made from coco leaves which helps with altitude sickness since Cuzco is 10,000 feet above sea level. I took a short nap for an hour and then headed out to check the tour operator that Pilar had recommended saying she trusted this guy. As I am on my way there a woman brought me into a tour operator place where another woman spoke english and gave me some good prices which were far cheaper than Cesars for the exact same tours. And after that I went to "Havitush tours" which Pilar recommended and they were rock bottom prices for the exact same tours. They are located at Procuradores 350 (Cuzco) just off the main plaza (Plaza de Armas) in a little alley nicknamed "Gringo alley".


So for tomorrow I booked a 4 hour city tour ($5US with english guide) which will take me out to 4-5 main Incan sites around Cuzco (Saqsaywaman, Q'engo, Tambomachay, Pukapukara and some other place). You have to buy a ticket for 130 soles which allows you to visit most of the sites in Cuzco for free up to 10 days before it expires. The Inca trail gets booked up months in advance and is expensive so to do Machu Pichu and Wayna Pichu I have decide to do a 5 day hike which is $180US plus the rental of a sleeping bag for $8US but that will be at the end of my Cuzco visit. I will also be going to the "Sacred valley" that has many important Inca sites. I will be booking all these through Havitush Tours.


After that I just walked around Cuzco a little. I am sure Cuzco must have been a remarkable city before the Conquistadores showed up since after the Conquistadores took over they used the Inca's finely cut square stones for their own houses and churches and the whole city has about 5 feet of Incan stone rising from the streets. Cuzco is surrounded by mountains very similar to Vilcabamba in Ecuador and in the mountain top is carved "VIVA EL PERU".


Tonight I am going to read up on my guidebook and make all my tour plans within the next few days so I will spend around 10 days here (including the trek to Machu Pichu and Wayna Pichu) before heading to Lake Titicaca.

Cuzco

I originally bought some powdered coco leaves in the Belen Market in Iquitos so I asked the guy at my hotel (Kay Pacha) in Cuzco to heat me up some water since I was going to make coco tea and he brought me out the tea with coco leaves inside. Apparently it is a common remedy for altitude sickness since Cuzco is 10,000 feet above sea level. 

Cuzco

This is the main plaza in Cuzco (Plaza de Armas). On the far right in the mountains you can see "VIVA EL PERU" carved into the mountain side.

Cuzco

Straight out is the main plaza (Plaza de Armas) and according to my LP guidebook the wall to the right is the oldest wall in Cuzco so probably the original from the Inca times.

Cuzco

That Inca masonry just amazes me. Level stones cut to perfection. Probably took one guy all day to cut just one. This is the oldest wall in Cuzco.

Cuzco

"Excuse me Mr Gringo. Are you lost? I am the official tour guide for this site and as you can see I have my authorized ID security card around my neck and there is no one else here. Please, come this way and I will show you around giving you the detailed history of this place".

Cuzco

Some bigger stones.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Travelogue#28: Cuzco (Saqsaywaman, Tambomachay, Pukapukara, and Q'engo)

October 28, 2011

Friday morning I walk a couple kilometers to the "Monumento Pachacutec" which is a tower with a statue on top of the Incan emperor "Pachacutie" who is the greatest Inca emperor who basically turned the Incas from a small village into an empire in his lifetime. After that I walked down to Cuzco's central market where they sell everything very similar to the Belen Market in Iquitos. As I am walking around I spot a section that sells ayahuasca and also "San Pedro" which is an hallucigenic cactus plant. So I buy some San Pedro since I haven't tried it yet. Here is a little that I just read about it the day before:


"San Pedro cactus- San Pedro, known as Wachuma in the “Quechua” Andean language, is a cactus that grows naturally in the high altitude, San Pedro contains a number of psychoactive alkaloids, which make it useful as an entheogen for shamanic ceremonies. It is generally cut into slices and boiled for a long period of time creating a green liquid juice which is consumed during ceremonies.
- Ayahuasca effects last 3 to 5 hours, whereas San Pedro lasts 10 to 12, but on a more 'gentle' journey
- San Pedro can be taken day or night, whereas Ayahuasca is recommended to be taken only at night, for there would be too many visual distractions from the journey if taken during the day".


After the market I come back to my hotel for a little nap before heading out on my city tour of Saqsaywaman, Tambomachay, Pukapukara, and Q'engo which runs from 2pm-6:30pm. Our guide's name is "Benjamin" and he is bilingual and really knows his history and archaeology. It was a spanish/english tour and the only other english speakers there was a family (Gloria, Jason and their 3 kids) from Victoria BC, Canada!! What are the odds of that and they live just 5 blocks from where I used to live in Victoria!.


Our first stop is Iglesia of Santa Domingo and Qorikancha since the church is built on top of the old Inca stone site. The big stones at Qorikancha are unbelieveable stone structures cut to perfection and the same size. The engineering was incredible as they lined up windows perfectly so you could look through 3 small windows simultaneously (see photo). This place was filled with Incan gold until the Conquistadores showed up. It was here in 1536 that the Conquistadores had to protect themselves from the 1000's of Incas that were overwhelming them after Manco Inca became the rebel Incan leader against the spanish where the Conquistadores barely survived that attack before mounting their offense to take the strategic spot of "Saqsaywaman" which is located a kilometer away high in the mountain.


Our next stop was "Saqsaywaman". Most gringos just pronounce it "sexy woman". The stones here were huge and some were 136 tonnes which were originally there when the Incas built this structure. The Incans had used this to stop the flow of water into Cuzco so to weaken the Conquistadores which is why the Conquistadores needed to take it against all odds. There is an artificial lake that the mountain water runs into and the Incans could control its flow and where it goes. It was neat being there and remembering from my book "The last days of the Incas" that this battle was fought in 1536 (475 years ago) and the details of this battle where the Incas were the closest to exterminating the 500 conquistadores and the Incas were up on high terraces as the Conquistadores used ladders to climb the terraces as the Incas fought them. Juan Pizarro was killed during that battle.


Our next stop after that was " Tambomachay" and there wasn't a lot of ruins there so a relatively quick visit. On our way back to the bus I stopped by to see what the venders were selling and I noticed a chess set that was Conquistadores against the Incas so I bought it for $10US. Most people who remember my Asian trip will remember I bought a hand crafted marble chess set in Vietnam for $3US which ended up costing me $100US when it came to airline weight restrictions and I ended up giving it away in Indonesia as it was becoming too much of a burden. I only have a few weeks left and so it should be manageable.


After Tambomachay we drove 100 meters to the next site called "Pukapukara" which was another small site of Incan ruins. Then our last ruin was "Q'engo" which was a burial site for the Incan emperors until the conquistadores showed up. It was a big rock that had a tunnel into it and burial chambers starting with the first Incan emperor. After that Benjamin had us stop at some gift shop that I assumed must have a commission in it for him as they explained to us the different types of llama fabric and how to tell the real stuff from the knock off stuff venders sell. I ended up buying a couple Incan key chains for 5 soles each.


Tomorrow I am doing a tour of the "Sacred Valley" which starts at 9am and goes to Incan sites that are farther out of Cuzco and for Sunday I booked a tour for Moray and a salt mine area and then for Monday and Tuesday I booked my Wayna Pichu and Machu Pichu tour by car. I was going to do a trek but it isn't the Inca trail so no ruins along the way and my legs said "no" to that idea. I might spend Wednesday in Cuzco to see anything else that I have left to see before grabbing a bus to Puno and Lake Titicaca.

Cuzco

This is the "monumento Pachacutec" tower and statue that commemorates the Incas greatest emperor Pachacutie. It opens at 9:30am and I was a bit early so might go inside when I get a chance after my tours are complete since my "boleto touristo" card I bought for all the sites includes this one.

Cuzco

This was a mural of the Incas and Conquistadores that I saw on my way to the monumento Pachacutec. It was painted in 1992.

Cuzco

This is a 12-sided stone. Apparently it is a tourist attraction all of its own since it is mentioned in the travel guides and kids point it out hoping for a tip.

cuzco

Someone dressed up as an Incan making a few peruvian soles with their cup. In the background is the entrance to Cuzco's central market.

cuzco

As I walked through the numerous aisles I came across this one since I was sure that was Ayahuasca in those plastic bottles (to the right of the woman with her back to us). I was curious if those cactus's were the hallucingenic type and she told me it was "San Pedro" which is a hallucinagenic cactus plant so I bought one dose to give it a try. I will report everything in detail about the "San Pedro" experience when I try it. Maybe after all my tours.

Cuzco

The entrance into Cuzco's central market where they sell everything.

Cuzco

As I walked to the central market there were sculptures and paintings in an alley and I came across this "Predator" which is built from junk and was getting a lot of attention from people.

Cuzco

I bought these two items at the Cuzco central market. My Machu Picchu coffee cup for 10 soles ($3.33US) and my 1 dose of "San Pedro" hallucingenic cactus plant in powder form for 10 soles as well.

Cuzco

The Conquistadores built the "Iglesia de Santo Domingo" over the old Inca fortress/compound after the conquest. You can sure tell the masonry difference between both cultures. This is basically where the Conquistadores hid for protection in 1536 against the 1000's of invading Incas and narrowly survived when it was just an Inca fortress.

Cuzco

This was inside the old inca fortress. Check out those walls!! Over the last 500 years this place has suffered earthquakes but all the Incan structures have not been damaged. Talk about good construction!


The people ahead of me are Gloria, Jason, and their 3 kids from the same city in Canada as myself Victoria, BC, Canada!!

Cuzco

This is a model of what the Inca fortress in Cuzco would have looked like in 1536 when the conquistadores took refuge in it for protection. It is all perfectly cut stone blocks with thatched roofs. You can see the size of the people compared to the structure.

Cuzco

These are those engineered windows where you can look straight down into the other 3 rooms. The walls were built on a slight angle for a sturdy structure/foundation. All the stones again were cut on an angle to accomplish that. Absolutely amazing!!

Saqsaywaman

This is Saqsaywaman. This is only a fraction of it and what you can see and according to our guide Benjamin it is only 10% of the size it used to be. The conquistadores would destroy as much of the previous Inca culture as they could as they remodel the new culture the way they want (so destroying the past).

Saqsaywaman

These are the 3 terraces that the Conquistadores would have to fight their way up using ladders as the Incas would attack them to hold it as their fort. Afterwards there would only be one brave Inca warrior that the Conquistadores later wrote about that even after all the other Incas ran for their lives he desperately stayed at his post and ran back and forth on the 3rd terrace clubbing as many Conquistadores as he could until he realized it was futile as the Conquistadores took control of Saqsaywaman.

Saqsaywaman

OK you can see the 3 terraces a little better from this angle. I am standing on the other side of a similar structure and on the opposite side of me is an artificial lake that the mountain water drained into which the Incas could redirect.

Saqsaywaman

This is on the second terrace and the stairs take you up to the 3rd terrace. I had to wait awhile to get this shot since it is full of people coming and going and wanting their photo here etc... Damn tourists!

Saqsaywaman

Our guide Benjamin told us this rock to the right was about 135 tonnes which obviously the Incas could not move but was a natural rock in that place and the Incas used it as part of their rock wall.

Tambomachay

This is the site of Tambomachay. A small site with another small structure behind me. Tambomachay means place of rest and water. You can see the running water to the left.

Pukapukara

This is the site of Pukapukara which is just 100 meters from Tambomachay.

Q'engo

This is the site of Q'engo where Incan emperors mummifed bodies and tombs are located.

Q'engo

The entrance to Q'engo is to the right where you slip through the crack of the giant rock and enter some tunnels where the tombs were located.